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home "sweet" home

Well we have made it safely home (and back to work unfortunately).

The trip was incredible and I can't wait to share the photos and videos of everything we did/saw/experienced!!!!

 I will try to post other hilarious and fun stories that we didnt' have time or internet access to post. Please check back for those in the next few days!!!!

We cannot thank everyone enough for their incredible support! The donations, comments, and big cheers helped us make it across 1/3 of the world in what has been the adventure of a lifetime

Love A & R 

home "sweet" home

Well we have made it safely home (and back to work unfortunately).

The trip was incredible and I can't wait to share the photos and videos of everything we did/saw/experienced!!!!

 I will try to post other hilarious and fun stories that we didnt' have time or internet access to post. Please check back for those in the next few days!!!!

We cannot thank everyone enough for their incredible support! The donations, comments, and big cheers helped us make it across 1/3 of the world in what has been the adventure of a lifetime

Love A & R 

The Finish Line!!!!

WE MADE IT!!!!

We have actually arrived safe and sound in Ulaanbataar with Black Betty intact! After our one puncture at the start of Monglia Black Betty rocked the rest of the way. Her suspension is what kept her running so well, and since we had completely changed her disintegrated radiator she was good to go! 

I have to say...it's actually been quite sad arriving. We were driving along, singing again at the top of our lungs when we drove over a crest of a mountain/hill and there the city was. I was in such a state of mixed emotions I was speechless (for those that know me that is a HUGE feat). I didn't want it to be over! Amanda had already had a huge cry in the car earlier in the day and now we were just stunned. 

The finish line was fun becuase there were loads of other teams there to meet up with. We drove in with 2 teams: On a Wheel & a Prayer (whom we call the Cutie Pies) and the team we nicknamed The Newlyweds (they are not even a couple). So awesome to cross that line with some incredible people that we have traveled with through crazy adventures. Actually...maybe I should share some more of those adventures!? Here you go...

We left Bayanhongor fairly early in the morning on Tuesday after camping with awesome teams (2 ambulances and 3 other cars). Some of the teams had left a bit earlier than us because they were having suspension issues and wanted to go a bit slow. We though no worries, we will just catch up. Our intent was to be in Ulaanbataar that evening. Well things didn't quite work out that way.

 First things first...we had to cross the  fast flowing river almost immediately after setting off. We had crossed one the day before but it was super easy and very shallow. This one....not so much! We watched a few cars take it before we were ready to take Black Betty through. Amanda driving, me filming. Powered in, got half way and then she couldn't go anymore! That is correct, we were in the middle of a river and not moving. Worried about our air intake we turned of the engine and I took a chance and opened the door...the height of the water was just below. I waded out into the river and got behind her, and started pushing along with another guy from the ambulance (Scott). Then Miles came and assisted as we could only get her a few feet more. With the 3 of us pushing we managed to get little Black Betty out of harms way. We figure that she must be too light to continue to get any traction when in water. Thankfully teams work together to get everyone across!

Once the river was crossed the Ambulance continued on quite fast. Soon enough everyone was ahead so once again we were with the 3 teams that have been together the day before (Cutie Pies & Newlyweds). Both of these cars have to go slow due to broken suspensions (much more complicated than that but for simplicity this is basically what was wrong).

(The Cutie Pies were the team we had been with when we decided to stay longer and possibly not have flights home. We have been with them through most of their 13 breakdowns in Mongolia and feel very very attached to them! )

Amanda and I were leading and following the "main road" (this is something you can never really tell...you just figure it is the main road because it is the widest, but that can always change). It was pretty rough go with massive potholes (tough for the other two cars) so the Cutie Pies said we shoudl have taken a right back a bit as the road was better and it would eventually meet up again with this one. So we all followed....oh what an adventure that led us on!

After quite some time we realized that that "nice looking road" was not the correct one as it had shrunk and was going in the wrong direction. We stopped and asked a Mongolian in tradiitional suit on a horse. After much hand waving in general direction pointing etc we determined that we could continue on this road and we would eventually get back to the main road...of course seeing many things most won't see. We thought that this was better than backtracking for tons of km's so on we went. And on, and on and on and then realized.... WE ARE LOST IN THE GOBI DESERT!!!!!

For hours we traversed rough terrain in our little cars: climbing hills of rock, balancing over massive ditches, and squeezing through small areas. At one point things got a little insane when Amanda and I thought we should go up this hill to ask at a Ger if we are going the right direction. REmember, there is no main road in the backcountry...it's all a massive jumble of little roads cutting across one another. sometimes they lead to the same road other times they will suddenly go off on a random direction. Because we were last in line no one could see us turn off...they kept going. We thought they would see us on the hill where the yurt is so we sped up there.  Since we could see the other 2 teams we figured they could see us, but we were wrong. The woman at the yurt had no clue so we headed back towards the teams when a 4x4 came our direction. I asked the man which way and he pointed to the road to follow. He was willing to have us follow him. Suddenly I saw the red car (Newlyweds) speeding off in the direction where we had all come from, on his way to go and look for us. I hopped out of the car and told Amanda to cut him off at the pass while I stayed with the Monglian so he wouldn't leave us. 

She speeds of in the distance and I look around...realize that I am in the middle of nowhere with no signs or location points for Amanda to find me on her way back. But it was all ok when suddenly after the Monglian song on the drivers radio ended Celine Dion came on!!!!!! I couldn't believe it. I was lost in the middle of the Gobi desert and a Monglian man is playing Celine Dion! I told him she was Canadian and I was Canadian but not sure if he understood. 

After some time I realized that she may not be able to find me again so I though it best to drive to the other cars. I hopped in the awesomely huge 4x4 and we drove back to the Cutie Pies car. They hadn't even seen Amanda and now Paul (from the red car) had not come back. So now 2 missing cars that are driving roads that make no sense, intertwine and all look the same. The entire area looks the same and it's very hard to tell if you have been where you have been. All I was thinking was "Amanda has no directional abilities, oh My GOD!!!!" Thankfully she managed her way back but Paul still had not come back. We couldnt' understand where he would have gone as they had seen us behind them not too far back. However, we all decided we should go and look for him, so we said goodbye to our only hope of getting unlost and watched him drive off. Then we started to look for him. Within minutes we realized that we had no idea which of the many roads he had taken so I suggested we go back to where we all started and just wait. Sometimes when lost it is better to just stay put. I was squished in behind Amanda because we had Nini from the red car in with us. We were quite far ahead of the Cutie Pies when we saw the red car!!!! I told Amanda she had to chase after him and I would hop out and tell the boys to stay put. So once again I was standing in the middle of nowhere watching my only ride drive away from me without me in it! 

The boys pulled up and we all waited, and waited and waited! Finally all the cars came back and we were reunited. We had a pow wow about our communication in vehicles (decided upon some signals and no go's). However, we were still lost! So we went in the direction the man in the 4x4 had pointed. After a bit of time we realized basically where we were and actually turned around and went back to where we had come from when we all lost each other. We were going in the right direction after all...but just hadn't gone very far so hadn't hit the town we thought we should have. 

We left at 9 a.m. and by 9:30 we rolled in to the city that was half way....we should have been there at about 1!!!! 

So, we were lost in the Gobi desert and it was SO MUCH FUN!!!!!

It is very early here and I am about to go and have breakfast. Then I am off to go and shoot some bazookas!!!! Not sure what Amanda's plans will be...likely she will take it easy as she seems to be coming down with something. 

I do have to say...I am having the time of my life!!!!!!!!

We've survived the car killing road!

Oh My God. What a crazy crazy road!!!! We left Khovd two days ago and everyone we were with had breakdown after breakdown. Black Betty had her engine light turn on so we pulled over and checked the oil. It was empty (wierd 'cause we just did an oil change in Russia) so we added a few more litres. However, once she had cooled down we checked again and she was OVERFILL! We forgot that you are supposed to wait 5 min to check the oil. the engine light came on just because of all the bumps. Thankfully we were travelling with the Scotts who rigged up an oil pan out of an old water bottle, drained the tank and re-added the right amount. Engine light is still on, but apparently that doesn't mean anything!

All of our elecrical has been shaken lose by the bumps, so our speedometer, odometer, gas gage are not working. Our heat switch in the car is stuck on cold and that sucks because Mongolia is freezing and raining in the mountains. One of the bolts holding our engine in the car is broken but rest assured I've just been told by the Mongolian mechanic that it's "no problem, go Ulaanbaatar" so, we're not fixing it. Apparently Black Betty has an unuslay 4 bolt system instead of the usual 3, so she's still got enough keeping things together. The mechanic told me I have his heart and I should not go to Ulaanbaatat but stay in Altai. Sorry, can't do it.

We had a fit of hysteria in the car yesterday. Ro pulled over because she smelled gas, not petrol but butane, in the car. We are both so tired and sick of these roads that we had a full on giggle fit for 10 minutes. I think we're delerious. The Dutchies and the Scotts came out of no-where and thought something was wrong with the car. Nope, we just lost it a little. Laughed ourselves to tears. This is absolutely insane.

The rest of the cars are at the shop now and since we're ready, we're headed off with new caravan teams. Hopefully the rest will catch up.

Not gonna make the 31st flight. We're flightless.

A & R

On our way

Stayed in a Ger camp last night. enjoyed an awesome traditional music concert. ate incredibly delicious mutton stew.

having major tummy troubles today however...not sure if it is the beer (yes Romanda is actually drinking beer) or if it was the yak chai tea or if it was the stew. the bad news about this is we have a long day ahead through some crazy roads. 80 km of great roads then 80 km through the part of the road that takes the MOST # of rally cars. wish us luck!

A HUGE HUGE HUGE thank you to Tweeds & Twats for leaving their Suzuki Alto tires for us. We now have 3 spares...fingers crossed it gets us through the next day or two :-)

We are struggling with getting to Ulaanbataar in enough time for our flights on the 31st. we are trying to change our flights but it will cost loads. Amanda's mom is on it though and hopefully they will be able to do it for less

we are with loads of teams, so dont' worry about us. IF anything Black Betty is doing the best of the bunch. the other teams are having loads of problems including engines having difficult time starting, no headlights, no shocks, broken spring, broken cv joint, and others. Black Betty has only decided to bring back her roar (muffler has a hole again)

ONWARDS!!!

a flat tire...but MONGOLIA!!!

WE MADE IT!!!! Well almost there anyway! We are in Mongolia thankfully. A VERY long wait at the Russian border followed by a full day at the Mongolian side. cool thing was there were loads of team and we partied!!! woohoo

 So a very quick update. we broke down in Russia...not a major city, not even near a highway or major road. it was in the middle of NOWHERE!!!! Black betty went over a bump and the fan got stuck in the radiator and blew the motor and melted the fan. we had to say goodbye to Just a Steppe Away and we were once again on our own...in the middle of NOWHERE! however, our amazing navigation and charade skills came in handy and we managed to get our car a complete makeover. Really truly... Amanda won over the old angry Russian mechanic and we got load done to our car! however, this cost us an etnitre day and we arrive late to the the border. We did manage to get in...after major tension with queue jumpers etc. but after a long day we made it into the border to camp on the mongolian side with the other teams

great great time  time at the border with the other teams. then crossed over after a day. oh so much to say!!! stayed at a Mongolian/Kazakh family. had a disco dance party, and drank vodka. good times.

then on our way and of course got a flat. but we are in Mongolia!!!!!!

Kazakhstan

We arrived into Kazakhstan two days ago and made it into Almaty yesterday afternoon. We have been traveling with Just a Steppe Away and we met up with another team (our nickname for them is white car or break down boys...). We all camped together half way from Shymkent to Almaty and were up early early to get on the road. OH BOY...the roads were pretty good until we hit a rough patch. thankfully black betty made it through! YAY

 Unfortunately a little further on we pulled over because the white car boys (Jez, Jorge, and John) were overheating. While Justin was checking their spark plugs Amanda heard a hissing from our tires. UH OH another flat tire. Thankfully we have two spares so it was no issue and within five min we had a new one on. Because of the rough roads our rim was bent which is where the leak came from. We now have 5 good tires and supposedly the roads get worse from here!!!!

The other car was not so lucky. We managed to get them to a gas station, and after turning the engine off it wouldn't come on again. it wouldnt' even slightly turn over! Well we were lucky and there was a service station right next to the gas station so we pushed the car there. I went into the back and walked in on the shirtless mechanics having beers, cigs, and lunch. I honestly felt like l was entering a sacred poker room. But a mechanic came out and we lifted the hood. Went to show him how it wouldnt' turn over, when of course, the engine started no problem! lol...

Once on the road again things seemed good...no noises and no overheating light. We busted it towards Almaty but 40 km out they had smoke/steam coming from below. We got them to pull over and pop the hood. NOT a good sight! Just a Steppe Away towed them basically into town (fun experience!) We're pretty sure this is the end for them, as steam was coming from the oil dipstick area, the engine, and the resevoir for coolant. Hence the nickname breakdown boys. I wish them luck!!!!

 We stayed at an AMAZING apartment that Christine's Kazak friend hooked up for us and Amanda had a shower she will never forget. Not just for the sake of having a shower after camping for days and sweating in the car (basically our feet have dirt crusted into every line and crack) but because it had buttons! Yes that is right...buttons that she could push and get music, a phone, a sauna and who knows what else. Let's just say when she opened the door to get out of the bathroom she was a bit frazzled...it ended up being a fight with the shower! (I will let her tell more on her next blog and will post the video as soon as I can figure out our youtube account!)

we've basically come to the realization that we will not make it to the 28th party. there is a slim chance but it will be very very tight. some teams have said the roads are horrible from here to Semey so we will see.

I have to go now as our battery is almost dead and Amanda needs to check her facebook. Thanks all for reading and please post commentS!

an old blog in a new place

This is from ages ago but people couldn't find the blog on our facebook page so I am reposting it!!! I will write another quick blog right after this so be watching! and will try to upload pics to our facebook site!

k, we dont have access to our blog from thıs computer so we,re doıng ıt here.

Spent the nıght last nıght ın Sumela where we saw a Monastery carved ınto the rocks. got up early thıs mornıng to cross the Iranıan border by evenıng as our car ınsurance ın Turkey expıres tonıght at mıdnıght. Were on a tıght schedule.

Problem - we need a new radıator. Black Betty heats up pretty bad, especıally durıng the day and we have to blast the heater on full blast (ın 40 degree whether) and that hasnt been too fun!

On the way out of town, we pull ınto a mechanıcs place; body shops, welders, auto mechanıcs, etc all ın one place. Perfect place to be. Of course we have to explaın what we need so we pull out our trusty language skılls...large hand movements, a bıt of charades, poıntıng, and of course a few drawıngs thrown ınto the mıx. After only about 5 mınutes everyone ıs on the same page (or so we hope) and the mechanıc takes our radıator out, fıxes the leak, and takes a run ın the car. ıts stıll overheatıng.

We showed hım the radıator wıth NO fıns left ın ıt (need fıns to cool thıngs down - ıt,s REALLY BAD). But, they dont have a radıator for our car ın any cıty other than Istanbul or Ankara - translatıon = way too far away. We need to get to Iran tonıght.

So... every mechanıc from around the place comes to check out the car and collectıvely they decıde theyre goıng to fıt a new radıator to our car. The guy gets out the blow torch and starts cuttıng one down to sıze. Serıously, I cant waıt to post the pıctures. Thıs ıs ınsane. They,re workıng on ıt now and say ıt wıll be ready by 4, just ın tıme for us to drıve 7 hours to the Iranıan border and cross before our ınsurance expıres! haha!!

Theyve been amazıng here. Got us lunch and theır frıend, a man who teaches Englısh ın Turkey came out to see us and help translate. Thıs place has been amazıng. And the Donaırs are SOOOOOO good.

PS After more amazıng language translatıons (before the actual translator arrıved) we managed to secure an extra spare tıre!!! It ıs now squıshed ın the back along wıth our 6 foot 3 frıend Wıll

PPS We have almost run out of car money due to thıs ıssue...donatıons are stıll beıng accepted vıa paypal on our websıte! heehee

WE ARE ALIVE!

Here is a VERY quick update...sorry they are so few and far between (and missing tons of info). its tough with our tight timeline and to find internet. I will share some of our highlights (i no particular order except with the order they enter my mind)

1. Our radiator was a piece of (well you know) - absolutely no fins --the things that cool it down-- so we had to get a new one. we went to a mechanic shop in turkey where they MADE us one...they cut a huge one down to size to fit our tiny black betty. they even fed us and kept us in an air conditioned room (when we weren't bent over the hood). for more info go to our facebook page and look on our discussion page

2. I was asked for my hand in marriage at the Uzbekistan border. The man was ready to throw away his current wedding ring if I would stay in Uzbekistan and marry him. It seems he is attracted to a woman who takes charge -- I was the one who had to coordinate 6 teams paperwork.

 3. NO SHOWER for 4 days....covered in dirt, sweat, dirt, sweat, sand, sand, dirt and sweat. oh what a lovely smell I make

3.5 Had a shower from our portable shower in a bathroom in a Turkish gastation bathroom. 

3.75 I got locked in a bathroom in Iran. I seriously thought I was going to be stuck in there all day and was preparing to have Amanda get the tow rope to toss over the top and I would belay myself upwards and over! thankfully an Iranian man was able to unlock it from the outside. AHHHH fresh air!

4. A camping site that we stopped in in Turkey along the Caspian had human feces in the shower stall (hence the need for 3.75)

5. MASSIVE craters in the road on the way to the crater.... Amanda was driving with Kaine from Just a Steppe Away and was in the rear. Suddenly we couldnt see them. waited and waited and waited. Black betty finally pulls up and Amanda hops out and pulls from our hatchback....OUR MUFFLER! Yep, one of the bumps knocked it half off and Amanda got out the jack (Kaine, a male, had no idea what a jack WAS...YAY girl power), and got it off. Then she proceeded to get it put back on for $20 (a lot less than our radiator fix) here in Bukhara.

6. I got to go and see the Aral sea, by hopping into the Bataar Hero's caravan. INCREDIBLE. Saddened by the thought that us humans could cause such devastation as to disappear one of the biggest lakes in the world. hopefully a wake up call. 

7. The border guard going in to Turkmenistan wasn't too pleased when I forgot that he had given me back Amanda's passport but I said he took it and walked away with it. oops...thankfullly they still let us into the country. 

8. Iran driving is CRAZY! plus they are so in awe of seeing you that they wave and stare as they go by and slowly start to drift towards us almost running us off the road! thankfully we survived Iran 

9. Another team has had a very bad car crash and one of the ralliers was killed. we send our condolences to the family and the team. our thoughts are with you.

10 Our travel mate through Turkey and Istanbul, Will from the team that crashed 30 minutes after the start, had a massive bite on his foot. it was so bad I convinced him that if it wasn't better in the mornign he would have to go to hospital. an hour later we met a family in Turkey (originally from Pakistan) who helped us at a gas station. we were trying to get ice to help with the swelling but he pulled out his own ointment he had been given from his doctor the week before for the same thing. he gave to Will!!! And they made an incredible recommendation to go and see a monastery in the cliffs (which we did, and WOW). Also....they gave us a donation!!! Amazing people, so kind and helpful...even though it was late and they were traveling far as well. THANK YOU!!!!

 10. We experienced our first sand bogging (getting stuck in the sand). trying to find the Aral sea some young kids sent us down a crazy road into the middle of nowhere where we (the car I was in) proceeded to get stuck in soft sand. What I found most hilarious was the fact that there was going to be a little Diahatsu pulling out a big punto!!! ufnortuantley we didnt' have enough tow rope so that didnt' happen. we did however dig out, put carpet under the tires and some brush. we all got in there to push/lift and we managed to get her unstuck! ohhhh so much fun!

I think that is it for now as I would like to go and join everyone for drinks and food. Bukhara is amazing...very beautiful. we are soon to be on our way to Samarkand and the border of Kazakhstan tomorrow! Wish us luck :-)

Ashgabat, Turkmenistan

enjoying a white city that is clean but eerily empty. rode a rollercoaster. fyi dont smoke on the sidewalk or you may get arrested...ask amanda

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